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How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

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How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi gallery preview

How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi is a 3D virtual gallery on MyGallery3D, a walkable online exhibition of 12 works. Step inside and explore it in your browser: no app, no headset.

About this 3D exhibition12 works

How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

Walk through this 3D virtual gallery of sushi in your browser, and start with the fact that the rice used to be thrown away.

The oldest form, narezushi, was a way to preserve freshwater fish. Fish was packed in salt and rice and left to ferment for months; the lacto-fermentation stopped it spoiling, and then the rice was discarded. It came from Southeast Asia, probably the Mekong basin, and a Chinese dictionary of the fourth century already describes it. Sushi means sour-tasting. Vinegar replaced the fermentation only in the Edo period.

Four Years in the Rice

The old sushi still exists. Near Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, funazushi is made from nigorobuna, a wild goldfish endemic to the lake. The fish are scaled and gutted through the gills, the roe kept intact, packed in salt for a year, then repacked in fermented rice annually for up to four more. Eighteen generations of the Kitamura family have made it at Kitashina since 1619.

The Fast Food of Edo

Nigirizushi was street food. Around 1824 the chef Hanaya Yohei made or perfected it at his shop in Ryōgoku: an oblong mound of rice with a slice of fish over it, eaten at once. His rice balls were about three times the size of today's, with half the vinegar and more salt. The red vinegar he used, aka-su, was fermented from sake lees.

Salmon Is a Norwegian Import

The most familiar sushi fish is not traditional. Raw salmon can carry Anisakis nematodes, so before refrigeration Japan did not eat it raw. Salmon sushi arrived only in the late 1980s, when Norwegian fishing companies with an oversupply of farmed fish went looking for a buyer and struck a deal with the Japanese company Nichirei for 5000 tons.

Works in this exhibition

  1. Assembly, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Assembly

    A chef combines rice, cucumber, and salmon into sushi. The image documents a moment of creation within traditional Japanese culinary practice.

    Photograph by Ivan S, via Pexels.

  2. The Cut, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    The Cut

    Fresh salmon yields to the knife. This slicing is where raw ingredient becomes sushi.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  3. Modern Practice, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Modern Practice

    A tattooed chef prepares sushi in a contemporary kitchen setting. The photograph suggests how traditional techniques exist within modern culinary contexts.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  4. The Cut, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    The Cut

    A close-up of slicing sushi on a wooden board. This moment captures one precise gesture in a longer process of culinary transformation.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  5. Ready to Serve, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Ready to Serve

    A chef holds a plate of salmon sushi rolls, prepared for service. The image marks the end point of careful preparation.

    Photograph by Ivan S, via Pexels.

  6. Slate and Skill, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Slate and Skill

    Sushi takes shape under a chef's hands in warm light. Preparation becomes performance in the restaurant kitchen.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  7. The Final Touch, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    The Final Touch

    A chef applies glaze to finished nigiri with precision. The brush completes what time and technique have already transformed.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  8. Close Work, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Close Work

    Blade meets sushi in a traditional kitchen. Precision completes the transformation.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  9. Precision in Practice, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Precision in Practice

    A chef demonstrates skilled technique in a professional kitchen. The careful preparation of nigiri suggests the discipline required to transform simple ingredients into refined cuisine.

    Photograph by Airam Dato-on, via Pexels.

  10. Arrangement, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Arrangement

    A chef uses chopsticks to organize sushi with care. The composition reveals how presentation is itself part of the craft.

    Photograph by Ivan S, via Pexels.

  11. Elements, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Elements

    Rice, salmon, and seaweed align on seaweed. The ingredients of perfect sushi, arranged.

    Photograph by Th2city Santana, via Pexels.

  12. Assembly, from How Rotting Fish Became Perfect Sushi

    Assembly

    A chef's hands form a salmon roll in close detail. The moment where components become one.

    Photograph by Ivan S, via Pexels.